With their unique wildlife, jungle-meets-beach landscape and year-round warmth it is easy to see why the Seychelles are popular with sun-seekers. You would be mistaken, however, if you thought a trip here was your average beach vacation.
The Creole culture is central to this collection of islands off the coast of East Africa and the Avani+ Barbarons Seychelles, recently reopened on Mahé island after extensive refurbishment, is the ideal landing point for the experience-led traveller. During our thirty-minute drive from Seychelles International airport my driver tells me that the country, the smallest in Africa, is increasingly attracting a more discerning crowd. Prices are comparatively high for Africa, so don’t expect to see backpackers or budget deals during your holiday.
The focus here is on quality rather than mass tourism. This is not a destination for shopping, clubbing and an English fry-up. There is the food market but no massive malls and there is only one nightclub on the island. “The Creole culture is about building a fire on the beach, cooking over the wood, playing music and enjoying a local rum or beer with a mango salad,” says my driver. This sounds exactly like the sort of chilled-out island escapism I am after.
The Seychelles beyond the fly-and-flop
Despite being the largest of the Seychelles’ 115 islands and containing 90% of the population, Mahé feels remote and relaxed. The Capital city Victoria is one of the smallest capitals in the world and the island is carpeted with so many national parks, reservations and rainforests it feels like the inhabited areas have just been carved out of the jungle – and that it could grow back at any time.
Avani+ Barbarons Seychelles is right on the beach, in a private curved bay with teal- blue waters. Giant fruit bats fly between the trees and during my stay a turtle laid her eggs in the white sands just metres from my room. Wildlife is so integrated with the resort that they have their own marine biologist on hand who can answer any questions.
Many of the bedrooms are only a few paces to the sea, though razor sharp rocks and a fierce undercurrent means it is best to keep actual swimming to the cordoned corner of the bay monitored by lifeguards. Water sports are encouraged, with kayaks and paddleboards offered free to guests. There are two large swimming pools, both with swim-up bars, so you can reward yourself after a fifty-five-metre length with a frozen margarita.
The one hundred and ninety-two-room hotel has three new spacious suites with direct beach access and their own individual plunge pools. The new lagoon access rooms step down into a long pool accessed from your private terrace, which is ideal for a morning swim as soon as you wake up. Floating “fat boys”, large beanbag-esque cushions, are available in every pool for those who wish to bob in the water as they sunbathe.
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Hammocks are strung between palms and wispy-curtained double-daybeds are dotted around for those seeking extra comfort and privacy. The AvaniSpa is enclosed by stone and trees, creating a calm retreat to while away a few hours. At the spa, there is another swimming pool, sauna, steam room and gym – though I was more interested in the custom massages which took my relaxation to a whole new level of zen.
So yes, Avani+ Barbarons makes for a beautiful ‘fly and flop’ holiday but there is far more for the curious minded to discover. Much of the Creole lifestyle centres around food. The Seychelles have been inhabited by African, European and Asian cultures and was part of the spice route, and all of these cultures have heavily influenced their food. Each Friday the hotel offers a complimentary cooking class where guests take it in turns to make different dishes. I selected turmeric for the rice as others cooked chicken into coconut milk and sliced vegetables.
Chef Emmanuel told us the history of the ingredients – for example, serving palm hearts showed you were rich, as you had to cut down an entire tree to harvest one heart, which was something only wealthy landowners could afford to do. “If we don’t advertise our Creole cuisine, who will,” he said while we were preparing our dishes. “It’s multi-cultural and a privilege. Our way of cooking is traditional, I grew up watching my father cook and learned as a child. We all do”. At home these meals would be cooked over a fire in one pot, but here at the hotel the kitchen is more modernised. That said, it was still outside and cooled by the sea breeze.
Afterwards the class ate lunch together with the satisfaction of having learned some new skills. The flagship restaurant ‘Somewhere’ specialises in wood-fire cooking and the sea-front ‘Pti-Bazar’ highlights cuisine from India, Asia and Africa. The small but perfectly formed sushi counter by the pool creates fresh rolls and sashimi to order, ideal for enjoying with a chilled sake or local beer as the DJ plays through the afternoon.
Cocktails are the order of the day though, with a rotating list drawing on local flavours such as hibiscus, papaya and coconut. A short drive away is the Takamaka distillery, the leading rum of the Seychelles, where locals and expats descend each Friday for music, barbeque and buckets of ice-chilled bottles of flavoured rum.
Avani+ Barbarons will be launching their own beachside, hammock-lined rum bar called ‘Nowhere’ in early 2026, as well as a champagne and tapas terrace which will have incredible sunset views. You can shake off any “cobwebs” the next day with morning zumba by the beach, sunset yoga by the spa pool or borrow a mask for some nearby snorkelling. Though there are plenty of activities to keep you occupied on site, the island is also very worth exploring. Luckily there are no deadly animals or large predators in the Seychelles, so there are plenty of hikes and walks through the lush tropical landscape. The botanical gardens are only twenty minutes away and perfect for a picnic and to take in the prized Coco de Mer, the world’s largest nut.
A national treasure of the Seychelles, these palms only grow on these islands and are a significant object of pride in Creole culture. Historically they have been linked to romance, fertility and magic and were given to kings and emperors as a symbol of power and prestige. For a piece of foodie history visit Marie Antoinette, the oldest Creole restaurant on the island. It has stood here so long the capital city grew up around it and the walls are covered with notes, drawings and business cards pinned by visitors from all over the world.
No trip to the Seychelles is complete without a boat trip to take in the crystal blue waters and sea life. The Avani+ Barbarons concierge team can arrange visits to the Sainte Anne National Marine Park to snorkel with fish, squid and turtles. A highlight of my visit was stopping at tiny Moyenne Island. Fruit bats wheeled above the jungle canopy, there were white sand strip beaches and crystal shallows for paddling. Make sure you eat lunch at the Jolly Roger for a no-frills-but-friendly food experience.
The Chef is one of only three people living on this tiny island and doles out generous plates of smoky marinated BBQ, spiced curries and fresh salad to a pumping reggae soundtrack. The cocktails may take a while to arrive, but this is island life so embrace the pace. The Seychelles is all about slow living while appreciating the beauty of nature and the local culture. Avani+ Barbarons combines this lifestyle with five-star luxury, and easy-going service with a smile.
Book the Seychelles yourself
Avani+ Barbarons costs from £270, based on two adults sharing on a a bed and breakfast basis. Go to avanihotels.com/en/seychelles-barbarons. BA flies from London to the Seychelles from £560 return
